a group of visitors at Madarihat Railway Station going to Totopara. |
TOTOPARA, A HABITAT OF NEARLY EXTINCT TRIBE TOTO.
On bordering area of India
and Bhutan ,
there is a village named Totopara. It is in Birpara-Madarihat Block of
Alipurdwar District of West Bengal state
in India .
By its name, may some people know that that is an ancestral place of nearly
extinct indigenous tribe Toto. They are mongoloid Burmese people. The bitter truth about this tribe is that they
are least numbered tribal people in the world. Their total population is 1584
(as on 16th jan, 2015, as told by the Panchayat Member (Local Body) of
Totopara). As he said, some of Toto live in neighboring country Bhutan. But
their actual number is not known yet.
a market place in Totopara |
As we talk about the village Totopara, it is still
lacking many modern facilities. There is a primary level school which is established
in 1990. And a high school established in 1995. There is a health Centre. Some
quarters for health workers are seen there and one guest house. The guest house
is an antique attic wooden house, an attraction,
design made on wood. Electricity connection was done before 4-5 years. Some
people are using electricity, still many are out of its use. They have fetch
water from farther places by using a polythene’s black pipe. Some people have
some means of storing water like smaller tanks, drums etc. Scattered village in
the green vegetation has grown betel nut (Supari). Besides, they grow millet in their
field. Keep pigs, goats, cows, fowl like chicken etc. Some of them collect Broomsticks from near-about forestry or even they grow the plant. Many of them travel 2 hours everyday to pass into Bhutan area for doing some job or contractual work. This is an additional support for earning their livelihood.
Local hotelier serving Rice Dal to the visitors |
When you begin to enter into the Toto’s village,
you may feel as if you are entering into a reserved place of 19th
century or before that.
World’s smallest tribe, having only member of 1584 persons
are almost illiterate. Now a days, few kids are going to school. But they have
a great challenge for further studies after class 10. They have to go out of
village, they can’t do collage from their home, for which most of the Toto can’t afford, they are financially weak. On the other hand, the place becomes isolated in summer because of rivers' high flow in monsoon.
Visitor Enjoying the Difference of Toto Village. |
We accept that the Toto is most indigenous tribe of
West Bengal of even in India .
Only now, we have seen one-two collage going student or graduated students. But
it is a good symptom that now a days, young generation is attracted towards
education. About 150 students are going to school now (as told by Panchayat
member).
A RIVERBED as a road WHERE JEEP RUNS IN WINTER.
Visitors in a picnic spot of Totopara. |
If anybody wants to know about the location of
Totopara, it’s in newly carved Alipurdwar District of West Bengal state in India .
Previously, it was in Jalpaiguri District. It’s in Birpara-Madarihat Block, to
the east from Siliguri (which is nearest biggest city). The ancestral habitat
of Toto is in Doars (Duars/Dooars/Doors). After crossing Riti and Titi forest,
to the north of Birpara town, east or north-east of Lankapara, Makrapara,
Dalmore, Ramjhora, Garganda, Hantupara tea gardens, to the east of Hantupara
tea garden, surrounded by Titi forest area, by Torsha River
there is Totopara. You can get a Commander Jeep from Madarihat. From Siliguri,
anyone can fine a bus up to Madarihat or one can travel by train too. From there one has to go by Jeep which is available
time-to-time is winter season. In summer, the place is naturally closed for
four months since it is
surrounded by forests and rivers. The riverbed, on
which the jeep runs, is dry in winter, making Jeeps run little easy. And for
four months and so far, Toto people store food and other commodities, since the
rivers are full of water and any jeep can’t ply then. Totopara is in closed
antic. Houri River is one which allows
Jeeps/Commanders (four wheeler vehicles) etc. to run on its bed in winter season.
There is Torsha River
to the east of Totopara, if the river is crossed, people can reach
Jaigaon, a bordering Town of Indo-Bhutan
Border , in Alipurdwar district. The town extended to Bhutan
area is called Phuntsholing.
River Torsha (Far) and it's tributary river (dry riverbed). |
Hillocks of Bhutan at the Background of Totopara (near picnic spot). |
Nearest village to Totopara is Ballalguri. It is 5
kilometer to the south of Totopara. Area of Totopara is almost 8 sq km. From
Madarihat, it is 22 kilometer far, a rough road joins National High Way 31, but
driving goes along the riverbank/riverbed. There is no road. Really different. Everybody
feels difference here.
Total population of the Toto in 2011 census was
about 1400, male 750 and female 650. Their only home in India is Totopara. Indian
government has registered them as indigenous tribe. Their total
number is
around 1500, they live there in Totopara, so if you want know about their
culture, language, tradition etc. you have to know from them. The tradition,
culture is survived only within 1500 people. They are really nearly extinct tribal
people. But recently, young youths are coming forward for safeguard of their
culture, language and traditions.
A Toto girls running Food Court. |
Toto tribal has their own language, but they don’t
have their own script. Now they are using Bengali script. Or they write in Roman .
Now a days, few Totos are doing research on
their language, script, culture and tradition. They are writing their history.
They are collecting documents regarding the same. Bhakta
Toto , who is
working in a Gramin Bank (Rural Bank) is compiling Toto dictionary and Jagadish Toto
is doing post graduate in Sukanto
University in Bengali language
in Dhupguri. He also is doing research on tribal and their language. Female
also is coming out for education. This is possible here because there is no sharp
gender discrimination in this tribe. Totos are sensible for their culture, so
that it is still alive in them. Toto language is Tibeto-Burmese family
language. Still some special steps should be taken for upliftment of the
society and their culture as well as language. But, some number of Totos can
speak Hindi, Bengali and Nepali languages too.
Old Toto woman collecting broomsticks on the slop-land. |
A guest House in Totopara. |
Their culture partially resembles with the culture
of Bhutanese people, that is to say, marriage. The place is adjacent to Bhutan ,
may be, because of which, their culture is influenced. To be accepted as able
for marriage, bride should have given birth of a child. If she has a child, her
marriage is accepted. When a girl agrees for marriage, boy takes the
girl to his home. After having a child, their marriage ceremony takes place. First
condition of their marriage is this that the bride should be a mother, or she should
have a baby. Both side’s parents then agree for their marriage ceremony, they
perform it greatly.
Divorce is not as easy as you may be thinking. A
Pooja (ritual offering to god) should be
done which is more expensive than that of a marriage. Because of this, bachelor
men and ladies think well before marriage. Married couples also hardly think
about divorce. After this expensive Pooja, the divorce takes place. After
divorce, the couple can live separately, remarriage or remain single. This
culture is not similar to other main Indian cultures. But India is an incredible country
where not only paternal system of society exists, but also maternal system of
societies are on practice. We can see different types of culture and traditions
in India .
Nearly extinct Toto’s culture is one amongst the variety of culture and
tradition.
As already mentioned above, they are nearly extinct
people, family planning is banned in them by the government. Nobody can inspire
them for family planning and they also cannot accept family planning. But as
talked to some of the
Toto couples, they showed their disgust. They said,
“family planning is banned in one way, on the other, we are poor, we cannot
give good education to our kids, or good health services. So what the fate will
be with babies if we keep giving birth of babies but void of giving them good education, food,
clothes etc?” We cannot disclose their names here. They said that they could
follow the government policy but there must be a reliable policy for their
kids’ education and health service.
A kitchen house of Toto tribe. |
Their way of earning is full of courage, strength and vigor. Some of them go
for work to Bhutan crossing the nearest border. Sometimes, they sale nut (Supari) which is grown in Totopara. Nut is sold
in the market. Totos sell livestock too. Their earning source is limited. But there are some naturally beautiful places, some people come to visit the place. There are some picnic spots where local youths (specially girls) sell things. Some of them run Hotel and Rest House for visitor.