Nearly Extinct Tribe Toto and Totopara (Totopada)

a group of visitors at Madarihat Railway
Station going to Totopara.

TOTOPARA, A HABITAT OF NEARLY EXTINCT TRIBE TOTO.

On bordering area of India and Bhutan, there is a village named Totopara. It is in Birpara-Madarihat Block of Alipurdwar  District of West Bengal state in India. By its name, may some people know that that is an ancestral place of nearly extinct indigenous tribe Toto. They are mongoloid Burmese people.  The bitter truth about this tribe is that they are least numbered tribal people in the world. Their total population is 1584 (as on 16^th jan, 2015, as told by the Panchayat Member (Local Body) of Totopara). As he said, some of Toto live in neighboring country Bhutan. But their actual number is not known yet.

a market place in Totopara

As we talk about the village Totopara, it is still lacking many modern facilities. There is a primary level school which is established in 1990. And a high school established in 1995. There is a health Centre. Some quarters for health workers are seen there and one guest house. The guest house is an antique attic wooden house,  an attraction, design made on wood. Electricity connection was done before 4-5 years. Some people are using electricity, still many are out of its use. They have fetch water from farther places by using a polythene’s black pipe. Some people have some means of storing water like smaller tanks, drums etc. Scattered village in the green vegetation has grown betel nut (Supari). Besides, they grow millet in their field. Keep pigs, goats, cows, fowl like chicken etc. Some of them collect Broomsticks from near-about forestry or even they grow the plant. Many of them travel 2 hours everyday to pass into Bhutan area for doing some job or contractual work. This is an additional support for earning their livelihood. 

Local hotelier serving Rice Dal
to the visitors

When you begin to enter into the Toto’s village, you may feel as if you are entering into a reserved place of 19^th century or before that.

World’s smallest tribe, having only member of 1584 persons are almost illiterate. Now a days, few kids are going to school. But they have a great challenge for further studies after class 10. They have to go out of village, they can’t do collage from their home, for which most of the Toto can’t afford, they are financially weak. On the other hand, the place becomes isolated in summer because of rivers' high flow in monsoon. 

Visitor Enjoying the Difference
of Toto Village.

We accept that the Toto is most indigenous tribe of West Bengal of even in India. Only now, we have seen one-two collage going student or graduated students. But it is a good symptom that now a days, young generation is attracted towards education. About 150 students are going to school now (as told by Panchayat member).

A RIVERBED as a road WHERE JEEP RUNS IN WINTER.

Visitors in a picnic spot of Totopara.

If anybody wants to know about the location of Totopara, it’s in newly carved Alipurdwar District of West Bengal state in India. Previously, it was in Jalpaiguri District. It’s in Birpara-Madarihat Block, to the east from Siliguri (which is nearest biggest city). The ancestral habitat of Toto is in Doars (Duars/Dooars/Doors). After crossing Riti and Titi forest, to the north of Birpara town, east or north-east of Lankapara, Makrapara, Dalmore, Ramjhora, Garganda, Hantupara tea gardens, to the east of Hantupara tea garden, surrounded by Titi forest area, by Torsha River there is Totopara. You can get a Commander Jeep from Madarihat. From Siliguri, anyone can fine a bus up to Madarihat or one can travel by train too.  From there one has to go by Jeep which is available time-to-time is winter season. In summer, the place is naturally closed for four months since it is

River Torsha (Far) and it's tributary
river (dry riverbed).

surrounded by forests and rivers. The riverbed, on which the jeep runs, is dry in winter, making Jeeps run little easy. And for four months and so far, Toto people store food and other commodities, since the rivers are full of water and any jeep can’t ply then. Totopara is in closed antic. Houri River is one which allows Jeeps/Commanders (four wheeler vehicles) etc. to run on its bed in winter season. There is Torsha River to the east of Totopara, if the river is crossed, people can reach Jaigaon, a bordering Town of Indo-Bhutan Border, in Alipurdwar district. The town extended to Bhutan area is called Phuntsholing.

Hillocks of Bhutan at the
Background of Totopara
(near picnic spot).

Nearest village to Totopara is Ballalguri. It is 5 kilometer to the south of Totopara. Area of Totopara is almost 8 sq km. From Madarihat, it is 22 kilometer far, a rough road joins National High Way 31, but driving goes along the riverbank/riverbed. There is no road. Really different. Everybody feels difference here.

Total population of the Toto in 2011 census was about 1400, male 750 and female 650. Their only home in India is Totopara. Indian government has registered them as indigenous tribe. Their total

A Toto girls running Food Court.

number is around 1500, they live there in Totopara, so if you want know about their culture, language, tradition etc. you have to know from them. The tradition, culture is survived only within 1500 people. They are really nearly extinct tribal people. But recently, young youths are coming forward for safeguard of their culture, language and traditions.

Toto tribal has their own language, but they don’t have their own script. Now they are using Bengali script. Or they write in Roman.

Old Toto woman collecting broomsticks on the slop-land.

Now a days, few Totos are doing research on their language, script, culture and tradition. They are writing their history. They are collecting documents regarding the same. Bhakta Toto,  who is working in a Gramin Bank (Rural Bank) is compiling Toto  dictionary and Jagadish Toto is doing post graduate in Sukanto University in Bengali language in Dhupguri. He also is doing research on tribal and their language. Female also is coming out for education. This is possible here because there is no sharp gender discrimination in this tribe. Totos are sensible for their culture, so that it is still alive in them. Toto language is Tibeto-Burmese family language. Still some special steps should be taken for upliftment of the society and their culture as well as language. But, some number of Totos can speak Hindi, Bengali and Nepali languages too.

A guest House in Totopara.

Their culture partially resembles with the culture of Bhutanese people, that is to say, marriage. The place is adjacent to Bhutan, may be, because of which, their culture is influenced. To be accepted as able for marriage, bride should have given birth of a child. If she has a child, her marriage is accepted. When a girl agrees for marriage, boy takes the girl to his home. After having a child, their marriage ceremony takes place. First condition of their marriage is this that the bride should be a mother, or she should have a baby. Both side’s parents then agree for their marriage ceremony, they perform it greatly.

Divorce is not as easy as you may be thinking. A Pooja (ritual offering to god)  should be done which is more expensive than that of a marriage. Because of this, bachelor men and ladies think well before marriage. Married couples also hardly think about divorce. After this expensive Pooja, the divorce takes place. After divorce, the couple can live separately, remarriage or remain single. This culture is not similar to other main Indian cultures. But India is an incredible country where not only paternal system of society exists, but also maternal system of societies are on practice. We can see different types of culture and traditions in India. Nearly extinct Toto’s culture is one amongst the variety of culture and tradition.

As already mentioned above, they are nearly extinct people, family planning is banned in them by the government. Nobody can inspire them for family planning and they also cannot accept family planning. But as talked to some of the

Toto couples, they showed their disgust. They said, “family planning is banned in one way, on the other, we are poor, we cannot give good education to our kids, or good health services. So what the fate will be with babies if we keep giving birth of babies but  void of giving them good education, food, clothes etc?” We cannot disclose their names here. They said that they could follow the government policy but there must be a reliable policy for their kids’ education and health service.

A kitchen house of Toto tribe.

Their way of earning is  full of courage, strength and vigor. Some of them go for work to Bhutan crossing the nearest border. Sometimes, they sale nut (Supari) which is grown in Totopara. Nut is sold in the market. Totos sell livestock too. Their earning source is limited. But there are some naturally beautiful places, some people come to visit the place. There are some picnic spots where local youths (specially girls) sell things. Some of them run Hotel and Rest House for visitor.